A toasted focaccia sandwich, a frosty pint of Anchor Steam and a view of Washington Square Park in North Beach.  What more could you possibly ask for?  This is just one of San Francisco’s many classic North Beach hangouts and is noted for its lack of a true kitchen – the focaccia sandwiches are warmed and toasted in an upright commercial toaster that resembles an old industrial dishwasher you’d find in a college cafeteria kitchen or in the bowels of a non-descript Holiday Inn somewhere in the Midwest.  Trust me, I know.

But back to paradise and North Beach, a buddy turned me on to this place over 20 years ago when we didn’t know how to cook and didn’t have the coin to frequent more elaborate venues that we may be more inclined to visit these days.

Back in the days when I lived on Polk Street, North Beach was a steep climb up Union Street and then a long descent down over Russian Hill – the view from the top of the hill worth the burning in the back of your legs as you caught a glimpse of Coit Tower and the shimmering neon lights of Columbus avenue flickering in the distance.

Mario’s is situated on the corner of Columbus and Union and features a handsome long bar with side tables along the windows and a few tables out on the sidewalk for good measure.  A nice jukebox in the corner is loaded up with cool jazz and retro rock and roll.

Invariably, I always ordered the Number 1 and sometimes splurged on a caprese salad to split with whoever I was with.  Mario’s was usually in the rotation for a Monday or Tuesday night, a good excuse to get out of the apartment but not too dangerous for a school night.

A stroll down Columbus usually followed for a doppio or capp before venturing back up over the hill for the night.

I haven’t been back in years but I’m fairly certain they haven’t succumbed to modernity and funked up the menu whatsoever which is a good thing in the age of grass fed burgers and dogs done good.

Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
566 Columbus Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133
Tel. 415/362-0536

www.mariosbohemiancigarstore.com