Tonight, it would be Cochon, a short cab ride or a 15 minute walk from my base in the French Quarter on Royal.  Dining solo, I was escorted to a seat at the kitchen bar overlooking the line and the wood burning oven – pure theatre and ample entertainment for the evening as it turned out.

The restaurant features clean lines with wood paneling and subtle lighting offset by an exposed brick wall on the opposite side.  After surveying the crowd, I noticed none other than Peter Buck and some comrades at a nearby table; R.E.M. were supposedly holed up in New Orleans recording their follow up to Accelerate this spring.  A Kentucky Bourbon and soda seemed to be in order and was shortly dispatched to my place setting.

While chatting with the couple to my left I noticed the wood fired oven being stoked and filled with steel platters of oysters; a local specialty, roasted oysters on the half shell are not to be missed.  Later in the week I experienced roasted/broiled oyster nirvana out in Metairie but that will have to wait for a follow up post..

I kicked off this meal with the highly regarded fried Rabbit Livers served on crisp toast with a tingling pepper jelly on the side.  No more than about 5 perfect parcels of joy, these babies delivered on the promise and were as light and fluffy as a She & Him track.

I snacked on a corn biscuit in between courses and continued to marvel at the execution and orderliness of the line in front of me.  The expediter called for countless orders and his crew delivered with precision and passion.

Countless orders of fresh fried pork cracklings made their way to newly arrived tables; bringing smiles to all around.   This IS a feel good place; might have been the bourbon but for a short hour or so it seemed like the early days of the BP disaster were still far offshore.

The night’s special entree arrived in front of me; it seemed like a foregone conclusion that I would have at least one pork product this evening and I opted for the bone in LARGE rib chop with equal parts tenderloin and strip-loin; pretty much a massive Pork Porterhouse.   This chop was sourced from an heirloom ‘free range’ pig of outstanding provenance and delivered a knock out punch in flavor and all around goodness.

Regrettably, I opted out for dessert but vowed to try the Lemon Buttermilk Pie on my next visit.

Five Stars — Not to be missed if you are in New Orleans.  Menu here..

The Cherry Cricket has been around for at least 60 years and has withstood the changes that time brings in the best way.  The changes that they’ve made are by and large welcome: multiple large LCD TVs to watch the sports event du jour while devouring a juicy burger, air conditioning and an assortment of fine cheeses to place on top of your burger.  Several local micro-brews are available on tap and world class shopping for the yuppies are just steps away from this neighborhood anchor.

Unfortunately, this isn’t a ’sleeper’ establishment, it’s gaining a national following after a recent Man vs. Food episode and the burgers here regularly place in the top two burgers in Denver between the two competing city mags, 5280 and Westword.  It’s just a perfect pit stop for a weekend day but be prepared to wait some extra time if you’re trying to secure a patio table.  If you’re OK with loud volumes and the aforementioned TVs on full tilt,  you’re likely to stroll right into a comfy table or booth inside.

Recommended:  The Cherry Cricket 1/2 lb. burger with provolone, sauteed mushrooms and mayo on the side.  Rare.

Osteria Marco is a winner in Denver.  I’ve hit this place three times in the last month and I’m hooked.  They do everything well – from house cured meats and in house aged cheeses to outstanding pizzas and a great casual downstairs room and bar. 

Under the guidance of Frank Bonnano, this restaurant hits the sweet spot between sophistication and unpretentious fine dining.  The user friendly menu begins with formaggi & salumi selections, both house crafted and imported and then branches out to include ample small plates, salads, creative paninis and the previously mentioned pizzas – the Rapini Za is out of this world BTW.

Looking for unique cocktails incorporating ginger beer or bacon infused bourbon?  Check.   How about some cured meats and home made sausages?  Check.  Some type of Pork Belly presentation?  Check.

Word has it that Bonnano is preparing to open a fourth Denver restaurant this summer; this time we’ll get his take on casual French/American country fare.  I’ll be there.

A French country kitchen par excellence.  This famous restaurant, a stone’s throw from one of  Bordeaux city’s old city gates, Porte de la Monnaie, has been serving southwestern France regional specialties since 1968.  It was on my hit list for my September 2007 Bordeaux wine country visit and it should be a must stop for anyone visiting the Bordeaux region.

As you enter the restaurant you’ll immediately see a country kitchen with wood burning fireplace straight ahead of you.  Laid upon a red checked wood display table are baskets of fresh cherry tomatoes, radishes and generous slabs of beautifully marbled cote de boeuf.  You’ll also likely see one or more whole ducks or chickens being spit roasted over the fire with a large iron kettle of duck fat also bubbling away; they fry their signature chunky fries in this kettle.  It’s a perfect Bordeaux tableaux and sets the scene for a fabulous experience.

Specialties of the house include duck and foie gras, grilled cote de boeuf, the herb spit-roasted chicken, duck rillettes, the crispy & insanely flavorful duck fat fried potatoe chunks and for good measure, heritage black pigs and farm fresh lamb from the region.

After being seated I was presented with a basket of the aforementioned cherry tomatoes, radishes and a generous portion of crispy fried pork tripe strips.   I followed that up with some gently sauteed fois gras, roasted bistro chicken with the duck fat chips and an oh so petite molten chocolate cake.   In a word……incroyable!  Service was friendly and efficient.

With today’s exchange rate and battered dollar you can expect to spend at least $50 per person for lunch and likely closer to $80 per person for dinner. The wine list includes countless local wines, some quite reasonable as well as an extended selection of Armagnac.

Don’t miss this restaurant; you’ll experience a life affirming tribute to the southwestern France country kitchen.  Also recommended, take a long walk north along the Garonne immediately after dinner.

La Tupina
6 Rue de la Porte de la Monnaie
33800 Bordeaux, France
+33 (0) 5 56 91 56 37
www.laptupina.com

Following a tip from a buddy, I headed to Mamoun’s for one of their legendary Falafel sandwiches.  

It had been a busy and warm morning, I had just finished the East Village Rock & Punk walking tour, an entertaining and illuminating 2 hr. jaunt through the Lower East Side, finally ending at the fabled former site of CBGB’s.  But I digress..

Mamoun’s Falafel

119 MacDougal St
New York, NY 10012
212-674-8685
Open 365 Days A Year
Open 11am – 5am Everyday

I was in between meals and really went in for curiosity’s sake and also due to the lack of a line on this early Sunday afternoon.  I proceeded to try the Black and White Frozen Custard Shake and patiently waited for my electronic hokey puck to vibrate while I checked out the swag available for sale off to the side of the menu.

The shake was fantastic, creamy cold goodness on a very humid day in New York!  There are two Shake Shack’s in Manhatten with a third planned for early 2010.  There are also plans in the works to take Shake Shack to Dubai and Saudi Arabia as well as a USA national rollout.

Danny Meyer has another hit on his hands, the concept is simple: a modern twist on the roadside burger stand with updated ingredients and quality, never frozen beef, taking the spotlight.   Check it out, highly recommended.

Shake Shack on the Upper West Side, 366 Columbus Avenue (77th Street); (646) 747-8770.

The restaurant is situated in the middle of the Plaza Midwood neighborhood, a recently gentrified hip enclave of Charlotte with your usual mix of tattoo parlors, organic leaning restaurants and the odd used LP record store.  Our first glimpse was the vintage Penguin Drive-in sign which definitely lent an air of authenticity to this restaurant.  The Penguin originally opened as an ice cream parlor back in 1954 and the restaurant features the original pine paneled walls and cozy atmosphere.

Upon entering, we encountered several tattooed hipsters disguised as wait staff and were told that the current wait list was approximately 20 minutes.  Inside seating is pretty limited, I’d say an assortment of about 15 booths and of course the upfront diner/bar area with about 10 bar stools available.  We put our name on the list and were pleasantly surprised to be seated in a prime corner booth with minutes.

We were faced with a classic diner menu with some great burger and hot dog highlights.   We also noted the grilled Pimento cheese sandwich and also commented on the fried bologna sandwich.  In a word….we were torn.

Finally, we all opted for Big Block burgers, approx 1/2 lb burgers with double patties, cheese and sliced pickle garnish.  An option for ’southern style’ with slaw and chili was also available but we decided to go the purist route that afternoon.   We also ordered the justifiably famous onion rings and fried pickles to start.    The onion rings were served sliced very thin and lightly battered…simply fantastic while the fried pickle slices were dusted in a light cornmeal batter and served with a ranch style sauce on the side.  Also a huge hit!

Along with the burgers we ordered a Grilled Pimento Cheese Sandwich to split and were happy we did.  It was marvelous and left us wondering why we hadn’t ordered the tangy Pimento cheese on our burgers which would have benefited from an extra little kick even though they were delicious as served.

Finally, we had overheard a nearby table raving about the Dinky Dog, a chili dog served with Pimento Cheese and mustard.  We promptly ordered one to split and were happy we had splurged for it!  Outstanding flavor and goodness in about 3 quick bites!

I will be back.

The Penguin

After browsing the forums on eGullet for Richmond I finally settled on checking out Comfort, a hip take on classic southern cooking located in the heart of town on Broad Street.   Conveniently situated less than a 5 minute walk from my hotel I made my way to the restaurant just before 7Pm. 

This was my first time in Richmond and I had spent the afternoon walking and exploring different historical areas of the city and touring the Museum of the Confederacy along with the neighboring Confederate White House.

Settling into my table after a 5 minute wait I was excited to see a list of over 75 small barrel American Bourbons available for sampling.  I immediately ordered one up and began to try and decide on dinner options.   A large chalkboard above the bar listed the evenings entrees, appetizers and a mouthwatering long list of side dishes available.  Entree prices included 2 accompanying sides of your choice or you could opt for 3 if you were up for it for a modestly higher price. 

After considering the fried catfish, roasted chicken and grilled pork chop I ultimately opted for the pulled BBQ pork and went with braised greens and creamy macaroni and cheese as my sides.  My chosen appetizer would be the fried green tomatoes which had won various shouts of praise on eGullet.

The positive reviews were accurate.   This was the best pulled pork BBQ that I had ever tasted – just enough vinegar tang and hints of sweet smokey flavor and the two side dishes were outstanding – especially the creamy and not too cheesy Mac & Cheese.  I decided to order dessert and settled on the banana custard which actually resembled a modified creme brulee with sliced bananas spread over the top of the dessert and richly caramelized.  

By the time I left the restaurant a line had formed on the sidewalk and I overheard an estimated wait time of 35 minutes.  I was glad I had opted for an early dinner and set off for the Fan to check out Delux Lounge.

Comfort

200 Broad Street
Richmond, VA 23220
phone 804.780.0004
fax 804.780.0005

Lunch
Mon – Fri 11:30 to 2:30
Dinner
Mon – Thurs 5:30 to 10:30
Fri – Sat 5:30 to 11:00
Bar
open after dinner hours until demand wanes.

The evening got off to a very rough start following a 6 hour delay at Charlotte before finally arriving at JFK at 9pm followed by a tortuously long Blue Van trip to my upper west side hotel. 

Taking a previous recommendation and determined to still enjoy what was left of the evening, I set off west to Broadway and then down to Lincoln Center to find an available table at Daniel  Bar Boulud, just across the street.  What a fantastic place; the interior resembled a wine cellar/cavern with white tiled walls and a handsome long  blond wood bar along one side.  As it was nearing Midnight, I quickly perused the menu and ordered the Escargot as an appetizer followed by the Boudin Blanc & Noir combination entree.   In a word, fantastic!

I will try and hit Daniel’s latest NYC creation, DBGB Kitchen & Bar the next time I’m in the city.

Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway, New York, NY 10023
nr. 64th St.  212-595-0303

After reading various write ups and reviews I thought I would try this out for a late Sunday afternoon lunch before heading back to JFK to catch my flight.  The morning had been rain soaked and I had managed to kill a couple of hours touring the Frank Lloyd Wright installation at the Guggenheim.

From there, I hit the subway and made my way back down into the Village to try Keste, one of  a handful of new, Napoli-esque pizzerias that had recently opened in the city.   After wandering down Bleecker and checking out the various literature posted outside the Bitter End, I made my way down the street.   Upon entering I learned that I had just missed the lunch hour and decided to venture up north to Chelsea to try Co. instead.

After about 20 minutes, I found Co. on the corner of 9th Ave. and 24th Street and immediately liked the clean, minimalistic look of the main room – blond hardwood tables and poured concrete floors.  The big windows offered tons of light and people watching opps throughout lunch.

I settled on the Boscaiola, ordered a glass of white and enjoyed almost all of side one of Abbey Road that was on the restaurant’s sound system.

Up to the point of my pizza arriving I was ready to enthusiastically recommend Co. but the pizza unfortunately left the experience a bit ‘flat’.   Although beautifully prepared and cooked to near perfection in Co.’s much touted wood fired oven, I found the pizza to be somewhat bland and uninspired.  Although the crust was just perfect the entire package just didn’t have that ‘Oomph’.

It should be made clear that this isn’t your traditional NY Pizza Pie and I knew that going in but I still expected great things and just didn’t reach pizza nirvana this day.   Maybe other days are and have been better but that’s my take.

Next time I’ll hit John’s in the Village or venture to Brooklyn for the holy grail and call it a day.

Co.

230 Ninth Ave., New York, NY 10001
at 24th St.
212-243-1105