A French country kitchen par excellence.  This famous restaurant, a stone’s throw from one of  Bordeaux city’s old city gates, Porte de la Monnaie, has been serving southwestern France regional specialties since 1968.  It was on my hit list for my September 2007 Bordeaux wine country visit and it should be a must stop for anyone visiting the Bordeaux region.

As you enter the restaurant you’ll immediately see a country kitchen with wood burning fireplace straight ahead of you.  Laid upon a red checked wood display table are baskets of fresh cherry tomatoes, radishes and generous slabs of beautifully marbled cote de boeuf.  You’ll also likely see one or more whole ducks or chickens being spit roasted over the fire with a large iron kettle of duck fat also bubbling away; they fry their signature chunky fries in this kettle.  It’s a perfect Bordeaux tableaux and sets the scene for a fabulous experience.

Specialties of the house include duck and foie gras, grilled cote de boeuf, the herb spit-roasted chicken, duck rillettes, the crispy & insanely flavorful duck fat fried potatoe chunks and for good measure, heritage black pigs and farm fresh lamb from the region.

After being seated I was presented with a basket of the aforementioned cherry tomatoes, radishes and a generous portion of crispy fried pork tripe strips.   I followed that up with some gently sauteed fois gras, roasted bistro chicken with the duck fat chips and an oh so petite molten chocolate cake.   In a word……incroyable!  Service was friendly and efficient.

With today’s exchange rate and battered dollar you can expect to spend at least $50 per person for lunch and likely closer to $80 per person for dinner. The wine list includes countless local wines, some quite reasonable as well as an extended selection of Armagnac.

Don’t miss this restaurant; you’ll experience a life affirming tribute to the southwestern France country kitchen.  Also recommended, take a long walk north along the Garonne immediately after dinner.

La Tupina
6 Rue de la Porte de la Monnaie
33800 Bordeaux, France
+33 (0) 5 56 91 56 37
www.laptupina.com

Following a tip from a buddy, I headed to Mamoun’s for one of their legendary Falafel sandwiches.  

It had been a busy and warm morning, I had just finished the East Village Rock & Punk walking tour, an entertaining and illuminating 2 hr. jaunt through the Lower East Side, finally ending at the fabled former site of CBGB’s.  But I digress..

Mamoun’s Falafel

119 MacDougal St
New York, NY 10012
212-674-8685
Open 365 Days A Year
Open 11am – 5am Everyday

I was in between meals and really went in for curiosity’s sake and also due to the lack of a line on this early Sunday afternoon.  I proceeded to try the Black and White Frozen Custard Shake and patiently waited for my electronic hokey puck to vibrate while I checked out the swag available for sale off to the side of the menu.

The shake was fantastic, creamy cold goodness on a very humid day in New York!  There are two Shake Shack’s in Manhatten with a third planned for early 2010.  There are also plans in the works to take Shake Shack to Dubai and Saudi Arabia as well as a USA national rollout.

Danny Meyer has another hit on his hands, the concept is simple: a modern twist on the roadside burger stand with updated ingredients and quality, never frozen beef, taking the spotlight.   Check it out, highly recommended.

Shake Shack on the Upper West Side, 366 Columbus Avenue (77th Street); (646) 747-8770.

The restaurant is situated in the middle of the Plaza Midwood neighborhood, a recently gentrified hip enclave of Charlotte with your usual mix of tattoo parlors, organic leaning restaurants and the odd used LP record store.  Our first glimpse was the vintage Penguin Drive-in sign which definitely lent an air of authenticity to this restaurant.  The Penguin originally opened as an ice cream parlor back in 1954 and the restaurant features the original pine paneled walls and cozy atmosphere.

Upon entering, we encountered several tattooed hipsters disguised as wait staff and were told that the current wait list was approximately 20 minutes.  Inside seating is pretty limited, I’d say an assortment of about 15 booths and of course the upfront diner/bar area with about 10 bar stools available.  We put our name on the list and were pleasantly surprised to be seated in a prime corner booth with minutes.

We were faced with a classic diner menu with some great burger and hot dog highlights.   We also noted the grilled Pimento cheese sandwich and also commented on the fried bologna sandwich.  In a word….we were torn.

Finally, we all opted for Big Block burgers, approx 1/2 lb burgers with double patties, cheese and sliced pickle garnish.  An option for ’southern style’ with slaw and chili was also available but we decided to go the purist route that afternoon.   We also ordered the justifiably famous onion rings and fried pickles to start.    The onion rings were served sliced very thin and lightly battered…simply fantastic while the fried pickle slices were dusted in a light cornmeal batter and served with a ranch style sauce on the side.  Also a huge hit!

Along with the burgers we ordered a Grilled Pimento Cheese Sandwich to split and were happy we did.  It was marvelous and left us wondering why we hadn’t ordered the tangy Pimento cheese on our burgers which would have benefited from an extra little kick even though they were delicious as served.

Finally, we had overheard a nearby table raving about the Dinky Dog, a chili dog served with Pimento Cheese and mustard.  We promptly ordered one to split and were happy we had splurged for it!  Outstanding flavor and goodness in about 3 quick bites!

I will be back.

The Penguin

After browsing the forums on eGullet for Richmond I finally settled on checking out Comfort, a hip take on classic southern cooking located in the heart of town on Broad Street.   Conveniently situated less than a 5 minute walk from my hotel I made my way to the restaurant just before 7Pm. 

This was my first time in Richmond and I had spent the afternoon walking and exploring different historical areas of the city and touring the Museum of the Confederacy along with the neighboring Confederate White House.

Settling into my table after a 5 minute wait I was excited to see a list of over 75 small barrel American Bourbons available for sampling.  I immediately ordered one up and began to try and decide on dinner options.   A large chalkboard above the bar listed the evenings entrees, appetizers and a mouthwatering long list of side dishes available.  Entree prices included 2 accompanying sides of your choice or you could opt for 3 if you were up for it for a modestly higher price. 

After considering the fried catfish, roasted chicken and grilled pork chop I ultimately opted for the pulled BBQ pork and went with braised greens and creamy macaroni and cheese as my sides.  My chosen appetizer would be the fried green tomatoes which had won various shouts of praise on eGullet.

The positive reviews were accurate.   This was the best pulled pork BBQ that I had ever tasted – just enough vinegar tang and hints of sweet smokey flavor and the two side dishes were outstanding – especially the creamy and not too cheesy Mac & Cheese.  I decided to order dessert and settled on the banana custard which actually resembled a modified creme brulee with sliced bananas spread over the top of the dessert and richly caramelized.  

By the time I left the restaurant a line had formed on the sidewalk and I overheard an estimated wait time of 35 minutes.  I was glad I had opted for an early dinner and set off for the Fan to check out Delux Lounge.

Comfort

200 Broad Street
Richmond, VA 23220
phone 804.780.0004
fax 804.780.0005

Lunch
Mon – Fri 11:30 to 2:30
Dinner
Mon – Thurs 5:30 to 10:30
Fri – Sat 5:30 to 11:00
Bar
open after dinner hours until demand wanes.

The evening got off to a very rough start following a 6 hour delay at Charlotte before finally arriving at JFK at 9pm followed by a tortuously long Blue Van trip to my upper west side hotel. 

Taking a previous recommendation and determined to still enjoy what was left of the evening, I set off west to Broadway and then down to Lincoln Center to find an available table at Daniel  Bar Boulud, just across the street.  What a fantastic place; the interior resembled a wine cellar/cavern with white tiled walls and a handsome long  blond wood bar along one side.  As it was nearing Midnight, I quickly perused the menu and ordered the Escargot as an appetizer followed by the Boudin Blanc & Noir combination entree.   In a word, fantastic!

I will try and hit Daniel’s latest NYC creation, DBGB Kitchen & Bar the next time I’m in the city.

Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway, New York, NY 10023
nr. 64th St.  212-595-0303

After reading various write ups and reviews I thought I would try this out for a late Sunday afternoon lunch before heading back to JFK to catch my flight.  The morning had been rain soaked and I had managed to kill a couple of hours touring the Frank Lloyd Wright installation at the Guggenheim.

From there, I hit the subway and made my way back down into the Village to try Keste, one of  a handful of new, Napoli-esque pizzerias that had recently opened in the city.   After wandering down Bleecker and checking out the various literature posted outside the Bitter End, I made my way down the street.   Upon entering I learned that I had just missed the lunch hour and decided to venture up north to Chelsea to try Co. instead.

After about 20 minutes, I found Co. on the corner of 9th Ave. and 24th Street and immediately liked the clean, minimalistic look of the main room – blond hardwood tables and poured concrete floors.  The big windows offered tons of light and people watching opps throughout lunch.

I settled on the Boscaiola, ordered a glass of white and enjoyed almost all of side one of Abbey Road that was on the restaurant’s sound system.

Up to the point of my pizza arriving I was ready to enthusiastically recommend Co. but the pizza unfortunately left the experience a bit ‘flat’.   Although beautifully prepared and cooked to near perfection in Co.’s much touted wood fired oven, I found the pizza to be somewhat bland and uninspired.  Although the crust was just perfect the entire package just didn’t have that ‘Oomph’.

It should be made clear that this isn’t your traditional NY Pizza Pie and I knew that going in but I still expected great things and just didn’t reach pizza nirvana this day.   Maybe other days are and have been better but that’s my take.

Next time I’ll hit John’s in the Village or venture to Brooklyn for the holy grail and call it a day.

Co.

230 Ninth Ave., New York, NY 10001
at 24th St.
212-243-1105

Last week I chose to dine at one of Ann Arbor’s quintessential restaurants, far from the now trendy cavalcade of high dollar Main Street emporiums of foodie lust.  Knight’s, established in 1984, features a horseshoe bar set up in the middle of the dining area with wood paneled walls and an old school menu featuring dyed in the wool favorites like Shrimp Cocktail, Escargot in Puff Pastry and good quality Steaks.    Dinners are served on an old fashioned sizzle plate with a choice of basic salads and a few potato options. 

Having dined here several times previously I knew the service could be spotty, the wait staff potentially cranky but what brings me back is the undeniable ‘authenticity’ that this establishment delivers. Arriving late this evening close to 9:30 PM, the main dining room and alcove areas were still buzzing with patrons lingering over their steaks, clinking fresh drinks or dutifully watching the Tigers – Yankee game on the TV above the bar.

My dining partner ordered up a glass of Pinot Noir while I opted for a Grey Goose martooni. Suffice to say the martooni had to be re-iced before I was able to enjoy it.

All quibbling aside, this place delivers a classic retro steak house experience minus the $8 sides and ala carte salads which is a welcome respite in the current environment. And, although the steaks weren’t classified as ‘prime’, they were served at the correct temperature and possessed outstanding flavor.

Dependable and reliable, two qualities increasingly difficult to find in anything these days. Try Knight’s the next time you’re in Ann Arbor.

Knight’s Steak House
Ann Arbor, MI
In 1952, Knight’s Meat Market opened, quickly becoming known for its high quality, hand-cut meat.  Ray Knight later founded Knight’s Steakhouse in April 1984. This timeless, family-operated restaurant is renowned for its great food and excellent customer service. With a full menu of traditional American cuisine specializing in steaks, fresh seafood and prime rib, reasonable prices and quality cuisine keep customers coming back to Knight’s. Knight’s Steakhouse Jackson is located at 2515 Horton Road;  Knight’s Steakhouse Ann Arbor is located at 2324 Dexter Avenue.  For information on Knight’s Steakhouse, please call (734) 665-8644.

Custom built and gourmet burger emporiums seem to be taking the USA by storm and Charlotte, North Carolina is no exception.  The monthly lifestyle magazine, Charlotte Magazine, has named Big Daddy’s Burger Bar as the best burger establishment in Charlotte in it’s annual Best of the Best Charlotte issue.  

Having read the magazine and hearing testimonials from friends, I set out on a steaming Saturday afternoon for the trendy Dilworth district of Charlotte to see what all the fuss was about.   Dilworth is a leafy subsection of Charlotte intersected by tony East Boulevard which features countless upscale dining options including several on my current ‘hit list’.  Tree lined residential boulevards and lanes surround East Boulevard which seems to underscore Dilworth as one of Charlotte’s most affluent areas.

Anyway, upon arriving I was relieved to see ample reserved customer parking behind the restaurant and brought my vehicle to a stop between a Range Rover Sport and a shiny new C4S.   Proceeding to the entrance, I noticed the bustling outdoor patio which was currently overflowing with a mix of trendsters, yuppie parents and urban adventurers.  I opted for the comforts of AC and headed inside.   I was promptly greeted by a smiling and sultry hostess and given several seating options.  I proceeded to a prime spot just off the entrance bar and within range of two large flatscreen LCD’s broadcasting the US Open from Beth Page Black.

My equally stunning waitress gave me the ‘first visit’ lowdown and explained the various options and gourmet toppings available.  I decided to go with a vermont white cheddar and mushroom ’standard’; a half pound never frozen burger served up medium along side the house slaw.  Next time I will order the sweet potato fries but I was trying to keep this somewhat healthy as I was also enjoying a toasty Bells Two Hearted Amber while I waited patiently!

Suffice to say this is indeed the best burger in Charlotte and one of the best I’ve ever enjoyed in a restaurant.  The scenery and setting was perfect and I will likely be back frequently!

Big Daddy’s Burger Bar

 (704) 714-4888

Dilworth
1626 East Blvd
Charlotte, NC 28203
www.bigdaddysburgerbar.com

Finally had a chance to visit Jim Noble’s newest restaurant, just a stones throw from Charlotte’s upscale Southpark Mall.   Entering this establishment I noticed the irreverant wall of stuffed roosters  set against what looked to be vintage, harvested barnwood siding, very nice.

The open kitchen with wrap around bar and comfortable bar stools gives way to a spacious dining area made up predominantly of cozy leather booths and tables along that same chicken festooned wall.   A separate wine bar adjoins the main dining room at the back.  The entire vibe of this place is rustic and relaxed.

The menu and style is decidedly ‘Napa Valley’-esque and draws heavily on prudent portions of Spanish, French and California style small plates featuring house cured and smoked treats like organic salmon, salumi and chilled duck breast — bingo!  I felt immediately at home and happy to be among like minded foodies in this new found temple.

The extensive wine by the glass menu features South American delights as well as lesser known European offerings.  I settled on a toasty Chilean Malbec and was impressed with the ample pour.  I opted for the organic lightly smoked salmon to start and was happy to share the battered squash blossoms ordered by another member of our dining crew that evening.   Both appetizers were beautifully prepared and presented with some freshly baked sourdough bread.

Entrees in our party included a succulent Hanger Steak, Carolina BBQ Pork Shoulder and spit fire roasted chicken.  The menu includes several unique side items including pan fried sweet corn and fire roasted beets, both not to be missed!   Finally, the bannana cream pie consisted of a warm, flourless chocolate torte base…outstanding!  Bravo.

Rooster’s Wood Fired Kitchen

6601 Morrison Blvd
Charlotte, NC 28211
Phone: 704-366-8688
Fax: 704-366-0788