Tonight, it would be Cochon, a short cab ride or a 15 minute walk from my base in the French Quarter on Royal.  Dining solo, I was escorted to a seat at the kitchen bar overlooking the line and the wood burning oven – pure theatre and ample entertainment for the evening as it turned out.

The restaurant features clean lines with wood paneling and subtle lighting offset by an exposed brick wall on the opposite side.  After surveying the crowd, I noticed none other than Peter Buck and some comrades at a nearby table; R.E.M. were supposedly holed up in New Orleans recording their follow up to Accelerate this spring.  A Kentucky Bourbon and soda seemed to be in order and was shortly dispatched to my place setting.

While chatting with the couple to my left I noticed the wood fired oven being stoked and filled with steel platters of oysters; a local specialty, roasted oysters on the half shell are not to be missed.  Later in the week I experienced roasted/broiled oyster nirvana out in Metairie but that will have to wait for a follow up post..

I kicked off this meal with the highly regarded fried Rabbit Livers served on crisp toast with a tingling pepper jelly on the side.  No more than about 5 perfect parcels of joy, these babies delivered on the promise and were as light and fluffy as a She & Him track.

I snacked on a corn biscuit in between courses and continued to marvel at the execution and orderliness of the line in front of me.  The expediter called for countless orders and his crew delivered with precision and passion.

Countless orders of fresh fried pork cracklings made their way to newly arrived tables; bringing smiles to all around.   This IS a feel good place; might have been the bourbon but for a short hour or so it seemed like the early days of the BP disaster were still far offshore.

The night’s special entree arrived in front of me; it seemed like a foregone conclusion that I would have at least one pork product this evening and I opted for the bone in LARGE rib chop with equal parts tenderloin and strip-loin; pretty much a massive Pork Porterhouse.   This chop was sourced from an heirloom ‘free range’ pig of outstanding provenance and delivered a knock out punch in flavor and all around goodness.

Regrettably, I opted out for dessert but vowed to try the Lemon Buttermilk Pie on my next visit.

Five Stars — Not to be missed if you are in New Orleans.  Menu here..

Osteria Marco is a winner in Denver.  I’ve hit this place three times in the last month and I’m hooked.  They do everything well – from house cured meats and in house aged cheeses to outstanding pizzas and a great casual downstairs room and bar. 

Under the guidance of Frank Bonnano, this restaurant hits the sweet spot between sophistication and unpretentious fine dining.  The user friendly menu begins with formaggi & salumi selections, both house crafted and imported and then branches out to include ample small plates, salads, creative paninis and the previously mentioned pizzas – the Rapini Za is out of this world BTW.

Looking for unique cocktails incorporating ginger beer or bacon infused bourbon?  Check.   How about some cured meats and home made sausages?  Check.  Some type of Pork Belly presentation?  Check.

Word has it that Bonnano is preparing to open a fourth Denver restaurant this summer; this time we’ll get his take on casual French/American country fare.  I’ll be there.

Little known outside of Michigan, Plath’s is a multi generation family owned artisan meat smoking operation based in Rogers City.   Plath’s smokes whitefish, various cuts of pork and cures their own bacon and hams.  Their products blow away anything produced by Niman Ranch and other more well known smoked meat purveyors.  Many fine restaurants throughout northern Michigan feature Plath’s products on their menus.

Rogers City, a deep water harbor on Lake Huron approximately 60 miles south of the
magnificent Straits of Mackinaw is a working class town known for the largest open pit limestone quarry in the world and fine fishing with an increasingly upscale resort lifestyle.  Plath’s has also recently opened a  new retail operation in Petoskey, Michigan.

For as long as I can remember, Plath’s has been the gold standard for thick cut bacon and plump sausages.  But a new revelation has been their house cured Hams.  I’m now in possession of one and continue to marvel at the rich smoky flavor and quality of the meat.  This is no Smithfield run of the mill ham!  Each bite brings forth new flavors including hints of clove, brown sugar and sweet hickory smoke.

I’m now scanning my cookbooks and the web for the ultimate bean and ham soup recipe that will properly showcase this world class ham — update to follow..please stay tuned.

Do yourself a favor and give Plath’s a call today, have them ship you 2 lbs of their bacon and a couple of smoked pork loin chops, you will be amazed and enchanted.

Plath's Smoked Meats

116 South Third StreetP. O. Box 7
Rogers City, MI  49779

Quality smoked meats since 1913.

For more information or to place an order, call 989.734.2232 or fax 989.734.2500.

The evening got off to a very rough start following a 6 hour delay at Charlotte before finally arriving at JFK at 9pm followed by a tortuously long Blue Van trip to my upper west side hotel. 

Taking a previous recommendation and determined to still enjoy what was left of the evening, I set off west to Broadway and then down to Lincoln Center to find an available table at Daniel  Bar Boulud, just across the street.  What a fantastic place; the interior resembled a wine cellar/cavern with white tiled walls and a handsome long  blond wood bar along one side.  As it was nearing Midnight, I quickly perused the menu and ordered the Escargot as an appetizer followed by the Boudin Blanc & Noir combination entree.   In a word, fantastic!

I will try and hit Daniel’s latest NYC creation, DBGB Kitchen & Bar the next time I’m in the city.

Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway, New York, NY 10023
nr. 64th St.  212-595-0303

Custom built and gourmet burger emporiums seem to be taking the USA by storm and Charlotte, North Carolina is no exception.  The monthly lifestyle magazine, Charlotte Magazine, has named Big Daddy’s Burger Bar as the best burger establishment in Charlotte in it’s annual Best of the Best Charlotte issue.  

Having read the magazine and hearing testimonials from friends, I set out on a steaming Saturday afternoon for the trendy Dilworth district of Charlotte to see what all the fuss was about.   Dilworth is a leafy subsection of Charlotte intersected by tony East Boulevard which features countless upscale dining options including several on my current ‘hit list’.  Tree lined residential boulevards and lanes surround East Boulevard which seems to underscore Dilworth as one of Charlotte’s most affluent areas.

Anyway, upon arriving I was relieved to see ample reserved customer parking behind the restaurant and brought my vehicle to a stop between a Range Rover Sport and a shiny new C4S.   Proceeding to the entrance, I noticed the bustling outdoor patio which was currently overflowing with a mix of trendsters, yuppie parents and urban adventurers.  I opted for the comforts of AC and headed inside.   I was promptly greeted by a smiling and sultry hostess and given several seating options.  I proceeded to a prime spot just off the entrance bar and within range of two large flatscreen LCD’s broadcasting the US Open from Beth Page Black.

My equally stunning waitress gave me the ‘first visit’ lowdown and explained the various options and gourmet toppings available.  I decided to go with a vermont white cheddar and mushroom ’standard’; a half pound never frozen burger served up medium along side the house slaw.  Next time I will order the sweet potato fries but I was trying to keep this somewhat healthy as I was also enjoying a toasty Bells Two Hearted Amber while I waited patiently!

Suffice to say this is indeed the best burger in Charlotte and one of the best I’ve ever enjoyed in a restaurant.  The scenery and setting was perfect and I will likely be back frequently!

Big Daddy’s Burger Bar

 (704) 714-4888

Dilworth
1626 East Blvd
Charlotte, NC 28203
www.bigdaddysburgerbar.com

Finally had a chance to visit Jim Noble’s newest restaurant, just a stones throw from Charlotte’s upscale Southpark Mall.   Entering this establishment I noticed the irreverant wall of stuffed roosters  set against what looked to be vintage, harvested barnwood siding, very nice.

The open kitchen with wrap around bar and comfortable bar stools gives way to a spacious dining area made up predominantly of cozy leather booths and tables along that same chicken festooned wall.   A separate wine bar adjoins the main dining room at the back.  The entire vibe of this place is rustic and relaxed.

The menu and style is decidedly ‘Napa Valley’-esque and draws heavily on prudent portions of Spanish, French and California style small plates featuring house cured and smoked treats like organic salmon, salumi and chilled duck breast — bingo!  I felt immediately at home and happy to be among like minded foodies in this new found temple.

The extensive wine by the glass menu features South American delights as well as lesser known European offerings.  I settled on a toasty Chilean Malbec and was impressed with the ample pour.  I opted for the organic lightly smoked salmon to start and was happy to share the battered squash blossoms ordered by another member of our dining crew that evening.   Both appetizers were beautifully prepared and presented with some freshly baked sourdough bread.

Entrees in our party included a succulent Hanger Steak, Carolina BBQ Pork Shoulder and spit fire roasted chicken.  The menu includes several unique side items including pan fried sweet corn and fire roasted beets, both not to be missed!   Finally, the bannana cream pie consisted of a warm, flourless chocolate torte base…outstanding!  Bravo.

Rooster’s Wood Fired Kitchen

6601 Morrison Blvd
Charlotte, NC 28211
Phone: 704-366-8688
Fax: 704-366-0788

Table features hardwood floors and a minimalistic feel throughout the main room.  The western wall is composed entirely of glass brick which adds nice filtered light into the room.  The owners are originally from Brooklyn, New York and relocated to Asheville several years ago to open Table.

After being led to my table I promptly ordered a glass of Austrian Gruner Veltiner, one of my favorite crisp whites and not always easy to find on by the glass lists.  My chosen appetizer was a subtle shrimp dumpling with smoked pork in a delicate miso infused broth — outstanding!  My entree was even better….an incredibly tender and moist double-thick local pork porterhouse chop, from Hickory Nut Farms, a local pork producer, accompanied by a spring Morel cream sauce and smashed baby redskin potatoes.

This is an unpretentious restaurant with luxurious, refined taste and atmosphere in the touristy town of Asheville.   Recommended.

Table
48 College St @ Rankin
Asheville NC
828.254.8980

Weds – Mon 11:00-2:30
Weds – Mon 5:30-11:30* (open late friday and saturday)
brunch Saturday and Sunday 9:30-3:00

It’s been nearly a year since my last visit to Barcelona and I still remember the outrageously great Paco Meralgo a few blocks northwest of Placa Catalunya in El Eixample.  I went on a Sunday late afternoon, a difficult time to find anything decent open in Barcelona.  Luckily Paco Meralgo is open 7 days a week.   I did a fair amount of research on egullet before the trip and had made notes to hit several current hot spots including Cal Pep, Tapac24 and Inopia.  I did hit all of those also and Paco Meralgo just barely nudged out Tapac24 as my favorite.

When I arrived around 6PM, the restaurant was full and both of the welcoming blond wood long bars were also packed.  I stepped out and walked up the street to window shop before heading back about 10 minutes later.  Luckily, the manager greeted me and handed me a menu and told me he would have a spot for me at the bar in a few minutes.   A cana was presented to me and I waited for my slot to open.

After scoring a nice spot on the bar in the main dining area I marveled at the gleaming glass displays of fresh seafood presented beautifully in front of me.  I also loved the large selection of quality wines by the glass.   Unlike other tapas restaurants I’ve visited, this one had a minimalist decor and lots of stylish people enjoying a casual Sunday afternoon.   Despite the buzz this place is currently getting I did not see the hordes of tourists you’re likely to encounter at other Barcelona hot spots which was nice.

I ordered several items to get things started.  Most everything on the menu ranged from €2 to €9 Euros for media raciones which are ‘half portions’.   First to arrive was the Pa amb tomaquet, the famous catalan tomato bread.  This simple menu item was so simple yet so incredibly good.   Simply take a nice catalan bread roll, cut in half, gently toast and then rub with fresh tomato, raw garlic and good quality olive oil, generous portions of each are important!   Having sampled several other tomato breads while in Barcelona, this was the best.

And..everything else I ordered was also stellar; from the quickly deep fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella to the razor clams and then on to the sublime padron peppers.   Make sure you hit this place up next time you are in Barcelona.

Paco Meralgo

c/ Muntaner 171
(on the corner with Còrsega)
08036 Barcelona

This is Michael Symon’s flagship restaurant on 4th Street in Cleveland’s revitalized downtown entertainment district; a stones throw away from the Hyatt Regency at the Arcade which I happened to hit up on Priceline for that evening.   If you didn’t know, Symon is one of the Food Network’s “Iron Chefs” of their popular “Iron Chef America” food porn show.

Lola Bistro didn’t disappoint.  Featuring new American regional cuisine with an emphasis on organic and locally sourced meats (especially Berkshire Pork!) I kicked things off with a Ketel One Martini in their handsome bar area while I waited for my table.   The adjacent glassed in floor to ceiling wine storage room behind the bar made for an attractive eye catching display.  While glancing the wine list I noticed that their most expensive bottle was an ‘04 Harlan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon for $950; unfortunately not in my budget that night..

After being shown to my table I noticed the open kitchen with a ring side table/bar just off to the side; looked like a great place for a client business meeting dinner or special event dinner.

I ordered up the Berkshire Bacon appetizer which was a melt in your mouth bundle of goodness followed by a striped black bass accompanied with a couple glasses of Raimat Chardonnay, one of my favorite Spanish whites…a nice crisp non-oaked Chard worth seeking out.

I finished off with an elegant chocolate peppermint parfait topped with sea salt; simply outstanding all around at Lola; check it out if you’re in Cleveland.

Núñez de Prado Extra Virgin Organic Olive Oil is recognized by connoisseurs as one of the finest Olive Oils in the world. This Olive Oil is First Cold Pressed, Unfiltered and is produced, packed and numbered at the Family Estate near Cordoba, Spain. Núñez de Prado is widely available in grocery stores throughout southern Spain but is not easily sourced in the United States.

Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil and counts Italy as one of its largest bulk oil customers.  It’s not widely known that current European Union rules allow Italy to market Italian extra virgin olive oil as “Italian” yet the minimum percentage of actual Italian oil required is minimal.  This so called “adulteration” of olive oil and olive oil regulation is a hot topic among foodies and connoisseurs in Europe and the USA.

Baena, the home of the family estate, is a picturesque town in the heart of Andalusia’s olive oil region.  The rolling hills throughout the region feature row upon row of olive trees as far as the eye can see providing a serene vista against the Andalusian blue skies.

In Spain, where others harvest by beating olives from the trees with sticks, the Núñez de Prado family insists on a more delicate technique, and doesn’t use pesticides. Each season, skilled crews from Seville arrive at the family’s four groves. Planning strategically, they select only trees with olives that have just turned from deep purple to black. The fruit is ripe and firm. Olives that have fallen from the tree are discarded. Harvesters can whack a tree clean in a few minutes; however, hand pickers take twenty minutes working at lightning speed. Their skilled fingers slide down a branch, detaching olives with a gentle milking motion. This protects the olives from bruises, which trigger acidity, and also protects the trees.

At the end of each morning and afternoon picking, the olives are trucked to the mill and pressed immediately, versus other producers where pressing may take place before fermentation begins.

Whenever returning to the USA I always bring back several bottles of this outstanding Extra Virgin Olive Oil for family and friends.